In early September 2025, we booked a self-guided walking holiday with MacsAdventure in which our luggage was transported for us between hotels.
We wanted a true mountain journey, rather than daily hikes from one or two locations, and the Via Alpina West looked like a genuine challenge.
Twenty-five years ago, we hiked the Pacific Crest Trail, 2658 miles from Mexico to Canada, but recently we haven’t carried big packs so we welcomed the idea of having our luggage transported between accommodations. Next year we hope to hike the Tour of Monte Rosa, for which we will have to carry all our stuff, so this was partly a shake-down trip to see how well our bodies performed.
Nevertheless, we had a few concerns even after we booked this trip, principally, would it be too hard for us? I also wondered whether the half-board food would be too “meaty” for us non-meat eaters, and whether incidentals in Switzerland, like buying snacks and drinks, would be prohibitively expensive. We were in Iceland last year and felt our pockets were picked every day.
As it transpired, the prices were reasonable, even at the more up-market hotels (except the last one), and there was usually a Coop where we could buy bread or salad bowls for lunchtime and steal some cheese from the breakfast buffet. Breakfasts and evening meals were superbly catered for our needs, with the possible slight exception of one evening when ‘beetroot risotto’ was the vivid pink colour of strawberry Angel Delight. The hotel owner, delivering it to our table, remarked, “Hmm, that does look strange!”
Difficulty is another matter, and highly subjective. Essentially, you’re going to climb a Scottish Munro (+3000ft) on every day except one. On four of the days, you’re climbing close to the height of Ben Nevis (+4000ft). If that sounds way beyond you, then you’ll struggle on this trip. Take a look at my Komoot map and pay close attention to the elevation changes and daily timings.
Oh, and for goodness' sake, do some training! Don’t think because you’ve done the West Highland Way you’ll nail this - it will nail you. If you do struggle, there’s a ready back-up pla; you’ll simply use a combination of buses and trains, for which Switzerland is rightly famous, to move between hotels. But it would be a shame to miss a moment of this wonderful, challenging hike.
PRE HIKE
The YR weather App is great for watching multiple destinations in advance. In the weeks before our September 2025 hike, I saw lots of rain and was a little worried about the state of the trail. All was well, and the mountains exceptionally green.
As well as the Mapbox routing on the MacsAdventure app, I transferred the route to Komoot. This allowed me to upload it to my Garmin watch for easy navigation on route, and also to scope out alternative routes when the need arose.
Sometimes there are nicer, smaller footpaths than the major Via Alpina route, which often follows ski-pistes.
You don't need sturdy hiking boots, but footwear should be waterproof with excellent grip. I had some Hoka Speedgoat GTX with a built-in gaiter, some Asics trail shoes, and a pair of sliders.
Most Swiss hotel rooms didn't provide a kettle or cups, and we do like a cup of tea at the end of a long hike. 
So we carried a folding kettle plus two individual thermos cups by Lifeventure. As you can see in the photo, we also had a filter bottle (plus a regular bottle). We only once had to draw from a stream, but small bottles of water at huts or cafes cost about £4.50.
So we carried a folding kettle plus two individual thermos cups by Lifeventure. As you can see in the photo, we also had a filter bottle (plus a regular bottle). We only once had to draw from a stream, but small bottles of water at huts or cafes cost about £4.50.
GETTING THERE
We traveled from London (where we left our dog with family) to Grindelwald by train, breaking the journey in Strasbourg. Eurostar was the most expensive and crowded; an Inoui TGV running for SNCF from Paris to Strasbourg was better; the boutique Hotel Tandem in Strasbourg was excellent. A quiet, triple glazed room overlooking the railway station. |
| View of train station from our quiet hotel room |
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| Strasbourg is beautiful but few veggie restaurant |
SBB APP
You will need the SBB app on your phone with a registered credit card and details of the travellers in your party (we’re both over 60). In our experience, you cannot now buy tickets on any bus or train - bus drivers didn’t want to know - but you do need a ticket. On the 8 journeys we took using public transport (4 bus, 4 train) we met 5 ticket inspectors. That’s more than a 50% chance of being caught without a ticket. They’re understanding with tourists who’ve made a mistake, but they will make you pay.Before leaving home, I also booked tickets for the Wengen to Murren transfer and our trip back to the airport from Montreux. I read somewhere that it was cheaper if booked from abroad, but I have no evidence. I used the App time and again while in Switzerland, and it holds all your tickets, even buses, in one place.
ARRIVAL
The 4* Hotel Belvedere in Grindelwald makes fantastic first impression. Pool, hot tubs, sauna, and a free mini bar (2 beers, Cokes, and waters) plus a welcome drink.
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| Eiger view from our balcony |
That’s before we’d done any hiking! I couldn’t help but feel this sort of attention is needed at the end of a week’s walking, not the start.
Grindelwald is as touristy as this route gets. It seems Chinese and particularly, Japanese tourists are attracted here by the story of Heidi, or at least the Anime version. There’s only one thing to recommend the place, and it looms over the town like a brooding giant - The Eiger.
DAY 1 Walk to Wengen
Our route climbed a rather dull, steep path to Klein Scheidegg, with most tourists preferring to ride the cable-car or historic cog railway. It’s an abrupt start to the walk, but my eyes were constantly drawn to the iconic north face, the scene of so many climbing dramas and tragedies. I rarely re-read books, but The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer is an exception, telling the story of the history and first ascent of this epic climb. |
| Eiger North Face with train below |
Most climbers started, and continue to start, from the hotel at Klein Scheidegg, which is now a human sea of tourists, milling around and taking photographs. This is also the starting point for the 1912 rack-and-pinion railway line that climbs a 7km tunnel inside the Eiger and Monch mountains to the Jungfraujoch. No one can accuse the Swiss of treating their mountains with excess sensitivity and respect.
The instructions in the App prepared us for the crowds at Klein Scheidegg, but not for the number of eBikes using the Via Alpina at this point, where it followed a partially paved route down to Wengen. This is where my Komoot mapping came in handy. I was able to identify a smaller, single-track path heading in roughly the same direction, which proved a more pleasant descent to Wengen.
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| Descent to Wengen |
The instructions in the App prepared us for the crowds at Klein Scheidegg, but not for the number of eBikes using the Via Alpina at this point, where it followed a partially paved route down to Wengen. This is where my Komoot mapping came in handy. I was able to identify a smaller, single-track path heading in roughly the same direction, which proved a more pleasant descent to Wengen.
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| Hotel Schönegg room |
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| Hotel Schönegg balcony view |
Wengen is car-free, but someone kindly transported our bags to the hotel, where we had a superb dinner. We’d been concerned that the Swiss half-board deal might be too ‘meaty’ and we’d be offered endless omelettes, so we were delighted to find a menu at the Hotel Schönegg with more veggie options than meat.
DAY 2 Train, cable-car, train to Murren then walk to Griesalp
On paper, making these connections sounds rather complicated but in practice it could hardly be easier. Booked in advance on the SBB App, it showed the times of all the connections, even a map to get from one to the other, although that was hardly needed when everyone else was doing exactly the same thing. We had been told the bags needed to be taken to a kiosk, but the hotel receptionist insisted we leave them at reception, “we do this all the time”. She was right, and it all worked. |
| Rotstock Hut |
This was a much better day’s walking, with no ski pistes, just lovely single-track through woods, rising to an alpine meadow. Early morning mist shrouded the valley and kept us cool, parting in time to reveal the Rotstock Hut. Much harder zigzag climbing took us to the Sefinenfurgge Pass, with the first of the wooden steps / ladders that have been built into upper sections of the next few passes to give surer footing on the the loose scree surface. In wet weather they would be valuable.
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| Wooden stair ladders on the Sefinenfurgge Pass |
The descent proved even harder. People often say,”it’s harder going down”, but I’m not convinced. I suspect it just feels that way because their legs have already completed 4000ft of ascent.
Signposts pointed two different directions to Griesalp and we followed the piste version as indicated by the Mac’s App. We just wanted to get there.
There are a few hotels at Griesalp, and our was run by a lovely, if overworked, woman called Teresa. Struggling to get staff, she seemed to run the entire place almost single-handed. Although the rooms of our hotel were quite basic, it shared an amazing outdoor spa with the posh hotel next door.
Incidentally, all the saunas here require you to be naked; you enter clad only in a towel which you open and spread on the wood as you sit down. Fortunately, the lighting is kept very low. You also go naked into the steam room, no towel, but there are spray hoses inside to wash your sweat from where you were sitting.
DAY 3 Walk to Kandersteg
We were asked to get the bags ready early for collection because the road would be closed for an unusual reason. “About 80 cows with flowers in their hair will be coming down from the higher pastures”, Teresa
sa explained, “and I have to offer coffee and schnapps to all the men.” With a roll her eyes she added, “It’s tradition - apparently!”
DAY 3 Walk to Kandersteg
We were asked to get the bags ready early for collection because the road would be closed for an unusual reason. “About 80 cows with flowers in their hair will be coming down from the higher pastures”, Teresasa explained, “and I have to offer coffee and schnapps to all the men.” With a roll her eyes she added, “It’s tradition - apparently!”
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| Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair |
If we were cycling, today would be the Queen stage, crossing the Hohtuerli, the highest pass of the Via Alpina. By now we understood the pattern of each day; walk through woods, then meadows, exposed bands of rock, and finally loose shale-like scree.
This time, as well as wooden ladders, the well made path was cut-into the rock and protected with chains and ropes. I could imagine some people would find this quite precarious in rain.
The pass is a wide saddle and, perched a little further uphill, the Bluemlisalp Hut crowns the ridge. Some of the people we spoke to on the way up were only going as far as this and spending the night. 7CHF to fill a water bottle seemed rather excessive but we needed it.
A (tepid) hot chocolate and a piece of apple cake completed the order, then we were on our way down.After an initial steep start, there’s more gradual descent on this side, again on superbly cut paths. Glaciers hanging off the mountain completed our view, their shrunken remains hinting at former glory.
The mountain lake of Ochensee was the next objective, but we diverted from the recommended Via Alpina route to follow an excellent, high-level traverse.
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| High level traverse above Ochensee |
We’d decided to save our legs by taking the gondola which we booked in advance online for 26 CHF each (it’s private so not on the SBB App). This cut about 1500 feet from descent and saved not only our knees but also more than an hour of time which we could spend relaxing in the hotel after what was still a long day.
The Hotel Bernerhof was another family run business, very friendly, with a superb restaurant. Their tuna was the best meal we ate. After a hard day on the hill, we really would not have wanted to spend time seeking out a restaurant that catered for our needs. Those whose menus we looked at were around £25-£35 for a main course.
Although today was the hardest on the route, it felt easier than the first two days. were getting into a rhythm.
The Hotel Bernerhof was another family run business, very friendly, with a superb restaurant. Their tuna was the best meal we ate. After a hard day on the hill, we really would not have wanted to spend time seeking out a restaurant that catered for our needs. Those whose menus we looked at were around £25-£35 for a main course.
Although today was the hardest on the route, it felt easier than the first two days. were getting into a rhythm.
DAY 4 Walk to Adelboden
I’m not sure how an 11mile day with 4700ft ascent can be an easy day but it felt so after yesterday. Heavy rain over night, left drizzle and low cloud by morning. Should we trust the forecast that it wouldn’t rain? Probably best not to, so we began the day in our big, three-layer Gortex jackets, the only time we wore or carried them in the whole trip. On other days it was lightweight running jackets. |
| Drizzly start in Kandersteg |
Climbing through the mist that swirled among the tress helped the initial miles slip past and by the time sun broke through we were high above the valley. Often we found we were overtaken in the early stages by an enthusiastic group, only to pass them while they rested and never see them again; a tortoise and hare situation. Pace yourself.
The cheese-maker shacks we’d been told to look out for were closed at this late stage of their season, but frequently they had honesty-box fridges with drinks, snacks and rarely cheese. Another day another pass, and another well cut path through the scree.
This is the Bunderschrind, a real ‘notch’ in the skyline, through which the wind was funneled. Yet again, we tackled a steep drop, initially very slippery, down loose shale and eventually onto surer ground.
We’re in a routine now, stopping for a hunk of bread from the Coop and a few bits of cheese liberated from the breakfast buffet. Before leaving home in Scotland, Liz packed a bag of mixed nuts and fruit for every day so we tucked in. Since we’re eating a late lunch, we’ve decided the instant coffee we also brought is not good for our sleep patterns so switched to peppermint tea, again liberated from buffets.
The Adler Hotel in Adelboden is typical wood and twee-ness outside with a modern interior.
A small pool and rather wonderful spa area with steam, sauna and all manner of baths. There’s a stylish restaurant with good views and great food although our veggie mains both nights were slightly underwhelming.
We booked a rest day here and it was a perfect choice, for hotel, location and timing within the journey. “The tramps are in” Liz announced as we re-decorated our lovely room with sink-laundered socks and shirts.
DAY 5 - Rest day in Adelboden
Oh yes, this is the right place to break the hike. Lovely hotel, good food, and amazing spa area where the sauna and steam room ease aching muscles. Wonderful.
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| Adelboden |
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| Quito |
The hotel also provides free passes for all the cable-cars and buses in the valley, so we took full advantage. First, we headed up the Tschentenalp and snapped this photo of Liz on a swing that’s set up precisely for this purpose. I tried to match it to a photo I’d taken on a similar swim above Quito in Ecuador a few years ago. It was lovely to enjoy the altitude without the effort for a change, and while Liz went for a walk, I lay on the grassland soaked in the view.
After lunch, we took a bus and cable car to the Engstligenalp, the cable-car rising above the spectacular Engstligenfalle waterfall. Since we weren’t hiking, there wasn’t much to do at the top, so were on the next cable-car down. It’s a great town and even better hotel in which to break the journey.
DAY6 Walk to Lenk
A nice climb up through a low wooded valley alongside a tumbling river was spoiled when we reached the ski area at the top. Hundreds of ‘snow makers’ had been dug into the landscape - pipes proving the water and cables to power them. The detritus of snow sports litter this landscape, and we were perfectly happy to use them when necessary, but this seemed way too much. As if the authorities had acknowledged that climate change had irreversibly changed their industry but were determined to damage the climate even more, just to squeeze the last few dollars out of it. Dodo hunters may have felt the same way.
Today’s crossing was relatively low-level with tarmac all he way to the top. In hindsight, I feel I could have found a better, non-paved route to the Hannenmoos pass, because sharing it with motorised traffic and people whizzing down on rented scooters was quite unpleasant.
Lenk is nice town and the guest house undergoing renovation so the restaurant was closed. Another visit to the local Coop store was required to assemble a picnic. Arrive thirty minutes before closing and much of it’s half-price. On the way back, we heard curious nosies from the railway yard and for a small herd of miniature goats grazing on a fenced enclosure right alongside the tracks. Very cute.
DAY 7 Walk to Gstaad
At 7am we woke to the sounds of the builders, who were renovating the guest house, throwing planks of wood from the scaffolding to the ground. The breakfast was ok, not great.
It’s a lovely climb up the Wallbach Gorge and again it seemed to take little time to reach the Trüttlisberg pass. Our designated route took us down to the town of Leunen to catch the bus to Gstaad. However, our legs still felt good so we continued on the true Via Alpina and descended a different valley directly to our overnight.
We had been getting a little fed up of the routine - steep climb up, cross a pass, steep climb down. This option gave a little more high-level hiking and a gradual descent, albeit five miles extra distance.
Gstaad is a Hermes and Ralph Lauren sort of place; conspicuously wealthy. The Philipino women we overheard in the Coop (we couldn’t afford to eat out in Gassed!) seemed more likely to be housekeepers than homeowners or tourists. A Private jet even flew overhead as we walked in. Tonight’s picnic was on a lovely balcony before we retired to a four poster bed that was so ‘Swiss’ I have expected a cuckoo to pop put of the pillow every hour.
DAY 8 Gstaad to L’Etivaz and bus to Chateau d’Oex
Fully prepared for the steep climb out of the valley, I noticed the gondola was running, and it didn’t take much dithering for us to decide this would be a good start to our day. It had been opened specially for an event called “Caprices in Gstaad”, that seemed to be some sort of music / DJ festival in the mountains. And no-one was using it!
I tried and initially failed to persuade the operator to allow us into one of the many gondola cabins which were leaving unoccupied. He was apologetic, just as we decided he wouldn’t budge, he did. We swept up more than a thousand feet in a few minutes, and didn’t feel in the least bit guilty.
This was a good day, with even more of the high-level walking we’d hoped for. Here’s where we step from the German speaking canton of Bern to the canton of Vaud, where they speak French. Plus it was blisteringly hot, and by the time we reached L’Etivaz were were in need of an ice cream. Catching buses at the end of a day’s hiking can be stressful in many countries, but not in Switzerland where the SBB App tells you exactly when they’ll arrive. Try to buy your ticket in-App before it leaves, not because the driver will want to see it (they won’t) but because it’s little tricky once the App knows the journey has started.
With a lovely outdoor bar, and the kind of menu vegetarians dread. Our only option on our half-board deal was a salad, followed by a swiss roti that had a massive lump of cheese melted into it. Both of us were full half-way through.
Debbie kindly allowed us a 7am breakfast (normally 7:30) so we can catch the 8:05 bus back to L’Etivaz to continue our walk. Bad weather due later tomorrow but hopefully we’ll escape with just drizzle.
Day 9 Last day to Glion, above Montreux
The true Via Alpina leaves Chateau d’Oex and takes a long, hilly route to Montreux. For the Macs variant you return to L’Etivaz and take a shorter route to the Roches de Naye cog railway. We went one better and stayed on the bus to La Lechettere cutting out a significant early climb.
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| Finally on a ridge and the mist descends with rain to follow |
As a result most of the day was descending until the climb to Col de Chaud. When we reached it, I thought the climbing was overbuy clearly, I hadn’t studied the contours, because it just kept on going. The mist came down, it started to drizzle, then rain, and the visibility dropped to a few meters. The first time we’d actually been hiking along a ride and we couldn’t see anything either side.
We reached the railway just as the once-hourly train was pulling out. Loads of people were sheltering in the cafe, the crowd partly due to this being a bank-holiday weekend. So we ordered a bowl of chips and some coffees, then jumped onto the train as soon as it arrived. The descent to Glion is 33CHF.
For our final night, we’d paid extra to stay at the luxurious Victoria Glion hotel, just above Montreux, and Macs had somehow upgraded us to a junior suite, with an amazing view across the lake, a massive room and a jacuzzi for a bath.
It’s lovely, but I couldn’t recommend you treat yourself as we did. Because, while the room was lovely, the restaurant was eye-wateringly expensive. It’s too far from town to seek out an alternative, especially pouring rain.
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| £24 desert |
We had a veggie lasagne and mushroom risotto plus a small beer and bottle of water. Liz had a tiny desert - total £120. Although the food was good, none of it was exceptional. On reflection, while the hotel was comfortable and fabulous bed and pillows, I’d have stayed in simpler hotel closer to where we had a choice of dining.
Day 10 Trains to Geneva airport, fly to Gatwick
A short walk to the lower cog-railway station and we were soon down at Montreux central station. Liz went out to find some sandwiches and before long were were on a direct train to Geneva airport and a swift check-in for EasyJet.
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| Direct train to Geneva Airport |
I'd just signed up for an American Express card which gave me four free entries to a lovely airport lounge, so we waited there until we joined the travelling circus that is modern air-travel.
